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For years, Lisbon was the major commerce link between Asia, Europe and the Americas. Though slow to modernize, this enchanting city by the sea is in the midst of a renaissance, and during Expo '98, the city transformed itself with newly built roads, real estate development projects and the unveiling of the new Ponte Vasco de Gama bridge. We love the hip, Bairro Alto area, filled with a young, stylish crowd and creative restaurants, bars and cutting-edge boutiques. Lisbon has changed with the times to become a diverse, modern city, yet has never let go of its classic, old world, charming style.
Museum of the Orient Avenida Brasilia, Doca de Alcantara Tel. 351 21.358.5200 www.foriente.pt This new museum housed in a refurbished industrial building is situated on the Alcantara waterfront. It's all about the Orient and it contains Europe's largest collection of Asian artifacts. The highlight is the famed Kwok On Collection which is an unbelieveable treasure of Asian theatrical and sacred masks, costumes and related pieces numbering over 1200.
Museo do Design Centro Cultural Belem Praco do Imperio Tel. 351.21.361.2400 www.ccb.pt The Lisbon Design Museum features an exhibition of new pieces dating from 1937. Luxurious, hand-crafted pieces in precious materials exemplify the French decorative tradition of the '40s and '50s, traditional wooden work, laminated material and plywood hails from Scandinavia and synthetic material in organic forms represents American design. Also included are pieces from the '70s in recycled materials as well as audacious, post-modern forms from the 80’s.
Parque das Nacoes www.portaldasnacoes.pt This city-within-a-city, originally conceived for the 1998 World Expo, was designed to create high-quality urban spaces and integrate the city in all its diversity. Today, residents enjoy services like shops and restaurants, schools, leisure and sporting facilities, a hospital and other services. Discover what is now known as the new Lisbon.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museum Avenida de Berna 45A Tel. 351.21.782.3000 www.gulbenkian.pt This very large art collection spans 4000 years and is the creation of an Armenian oil man. One of the exhibits is a jewelry collection by Rene Lalique. The museums landscaped gardens offer a great respite from the busy city.
Mini Bar Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, 58 Chiado Tel. 351.21.130.53.93 www.minibar.pt The restaurant is inside the Sao Luis Municipal Theatre and is the latest venture of Chef Jose Avillez. If you haven't heard of him you will as he's changing the eating scene of Portugal. He's already opened 5 restaurants. His avant-garde cooking is very up to date and includes dishes like tempura fried avocado spears with cilantro. The prices here are reasonable (hope it stays that way). Average dinner for two is around 80 Euros without wine or tip.
Belcanto Lardo de Sao Carlos, 10 Tel. 351.21.0607 www.belcanto.pt Chef Jose Avillez presents traditional Portugues dishes with a modern twist in a lovely wood paneled dining room. The New York Times calls the restaurant brilliant.
Terreiro do Paco Lisboa Welcome Center Praca do ComercioChef Tel 210.312.850 www.terreiropaco.com This former post office has been divided into two spaces, the Terreiro and the Paco. Terreiro serves snack type sampler dishes, while the Paco upstairs offers a more sophisticated creative cuisine.
Chafariz do Vinho Rua da Mae d'Agia a Praca da Alegria Tel. 351.21.342.2079 www.chafarizdovinho.com This really unusual wine bar ia housed in an 18th century stone acquaduct. Not only are the good wines amazing value but also the four-course tasting menu.
A Casa do Bacalhau Rua do Grilo Tel. 218.620.007 http://acasadobacalhau.restaunet.pt/en/index.asp Thirty versions of Portugal's favorite dish-Bacalhau, or salt cod. Other hearty dishes and great local wine list served in an ambinace of brick, wood and wicker
Cop '3 Largo Vitorino Damasio 3 Tel. 213.973.094 www.restaurantecop3.com Situated in the Santos Desogn District, this minimalist restaurant specializes Portuguese nouveau cuisine.
Casa da Comida Travessa das Amoreiras, 1 Tel. 213.885.376 www.casadacomida.pt This temple of gastronomy is located in an 18th century building. The patio is particurlarly inviting when weather permits. Some of the noted dishes are shellfish soup, pheasant marinated in port and grouper with a coriander sauce. All the wines are Portuguese.
Restaurant Virgula Rua da Cinturu Porto de Lisoa 16 Tel. 351.21.343.2002 www.restaurantevirgula.com Bertilio Gomes, the young chef, is gaining well deserved respect for his inventive Portuguese cuisine. The restaurant is housed in a warehouse like structure overlooking the Tagus River
Royale Cafe Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 29 Tel. 351.21.346.9125 www.royalecafe.com In the chic area of Chiado this small cafe is noted for it's creative salads. Perfect for lunch.
Bica do Sapato Avenida Infante D. Henrique Tel. 218.810.320 Come for the scene and savor the food at John Malkovich co-owned Bica do Sapoto, where the Tagus River rivals the local celebrities for a beautiful backdrop. A former boat factory, this restaurant offers a sushi bar, a casual cafeteria-style venue and the main dining room, which takes delicious liberties with traditional Portuguese cuisine.
Eleven Rua Marquis de Fronteira Jardim Amalia Rodrigues Tel. 213.862.211 www.restauranteleven.com Eleven partners, one of which is the celebrity chef Joechim Koerper, have opened this new superb concrete and glass restaurant. It is set in Eduardo VII Park and overlooks the Tagus River. It is the first restaurant in Lisbon to recieve a Michelin star.
Nobre Marina Club Edificio Nau, F18 Passeio dos Naveganes. Marina Expo. Tel. 218.931.604 This traditional restaurant offers a refined atmosphere and exquisite dishes including crab soup, bass cooked in parchment and duck with olives.
Fatima Lopes Rua da Atalaia 36 Tel. 213.240.546 www.fatima-lopes.com Portugal's fashion queen does colorful and streamlined outfits for men and women.
A Vida Portuguesa Rua Anchieta 11 Tel. 213.465.073 www.avidaportuguesa.com Classic Portuguese products and design items that are well presented at this special store.
Ana Salazar Rua do Carmo 87 Tel. 213.472.289 Internationally-known Ana Salazar jumpstarted Portugal's fashion industry in the '70s and remains an inventive force of style today. Her line of clothing and accessories is influences by her fellow artists and writers.
Alexandra Moura Rua Latino Coelho, 33 Tel. 213.142.511 www.alexandramoura.com Only available by appointment, this exclusive designer and former apprentice of Ana Salazar is quite popular for her urban clothing with custom-made finishings.
Fabrico Infinito Rua Dom Pedro V 74 Tel. +35 1 212.467.629 www.fabricoinfinito.com Orriginal home decor and jewelry by independent designers from Portugal and Brazil.
Galerie Jorge Shirley Rua da Escola Politecnica 21-23 Tel. +35 1 213.864.497 www.jorgeshirley.com This is one Lisbon's most respected Art Galleries.
Emporio Casa Bazar Rua Dom Pedro V 65 Tel. +35 1 210.964.093 www.emporiocasa.pt Spanish candles, smooth Italian vases and Brazilian electronic music. Kitsch designed Portuguese household products .
Hold Me Rua do Norte, 33 Tel. 213.471.570 Bags, suitcases, trunks and vanity cases.
Ilha do Bairro Tua do Norte 94 Tel. 213.460.210 Club styles for nights on the town.
Follow Me A free monthly guide to Lisbon in English and Spanish and available in tourist-frequented places.
Guia do Lazer http://lazer.publico.clix.pt/ (in Portuguese) This entertainment listing is found in the Thursday edition of the Publico daily paper.
Fado.... Fado is a nostalgic and mournful music that depicts the epic adventures of Portuguese people around the world. The term "saudade" is so essentially Portuguese that is defies translation. Fado singers bring the world of doomed love affairs and the hardships of life to their audience in their soulful ballads.
Sr. Vinho Rua do Meio-aLapa, 18 Tel. 213.972.681 www.restsrvinho.com With her husky voice and obligatory shawl, Maria de Fe is a revered fado singer. This club is a must for fado purists to come and hear her and othe artists singing Lisboa and Coimbra. The club attracts locals and discerning foreign visitors.
Lux Avenida, Infante D. Henrique Armazem. A. Tel. 218.820.890 www.luxfragil.com This once old customs warehouse on the banks of the Tigus is night time complex various clubs including dance on the lower floors to the bars above and the outdoor terrace. You can wander from one to the other immersing yourself in disco, techno, garage and house sounds by DJ's and live bands.
B. Leza 50 Lago do Conde Bar-o Tel. +351.21.396.3735 http://blogdibleza.blogspot.fr African club located in a warehouse near the Tagus river. Although the specialty is live music from Cape Verde there are ofen bands from Angola, Mozambique and Brazil.
Alto Bar Travessa dos FiessDeus, 33-31 Dance with a young crowd after getting your fruity, slushy drink from '50s-style juice mixers.
Club 43 Rua da Barroca, 43 Meet a diverse crowd for drinks and casual conversation.
Quatro Estaciones Rua da Barroca, 60A One of the city's more tranquil nightspots, where speaking won't strain your vocal chords.
Fragil Rua da Atalaia, 105 Tel 213.469.578 This is the gayest of the "straight" clubs. Or better yet, this is Lisbon's "straight-friendly" gay club. Predominantly gay on weekends, this is one of the oldest and hippest nightspots in the city. A diverse crowd dances until 4am.
Kapital Avenida 24 de Julho, 68 Tel 213.957.101 An upscale crowd, a chic look and a terrace that's perfect for summer nights.
Kremlin Escadinhas da Praia, 5 Tel 213.957.101 A unique club that opens at 6am, that, according to the doorman, attracts anyone from "dukes to drug addicts, club kids, artists, prostitutes, politicians - you name it."
Trumps Rua da Imprensa National 104B Tel. +35 1 213.951.135 www.trumps.pt Very lively Gay dance club with two dance floors. Drag shows are spirited and quite popular with the locals and tourists alike.
Cinco Lounge Rua Ruben A. Leitao 17 Tel. +35 1 213.424.033 www.cincolounge.com Unusual concoctions make up the 40 page drink list. Try the beetroot margaritas with coriander.
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