Dug into the rock, this fabled hotel is perched high on a bluff overlooking the sea. To the delight of its largely repeat clientele, this continues to be the Amalfi Coast's patron saint. It is an exclusive redoubt for jetsetters and the global elite. It is not meant for those who are doing the value packed once in a life time Grand Tour.
The eclectic-style public space here is limited, the pool is not large but the views offer panoramic sea sweeps. The décor has a unpretentious residential feel to it and the staff is sophisticated and adept at anticipating their guests needs.
The small reception area is lavish with glowing tile, sensuous art and a graceful vaulted ceiling. Baggage disappears to rooms, leaving guests bedazzled by views of the village tumbling down the hill to a kaleidoscope of fishing boats, ferries and umbrellas dotting the beach below. Cool whitewashed rooms fill the brick-red 18th-century noble house, which has been operating as a hotel since 1951. A sunny lounge with art-filled niches encourages lingering, but most guests relax on the numerous richly appointed terraces.
Ivy clings to the white pillars of the vaulted La Sponda restaurant, where contemporary table arrangements sit atop the green glazed-tile floor. At night, hundreds of candles create a romantic mood. A terrace extends outdoors, where diners take in the world-famous Positano panorama. The intimate bar cocoons guests in deep seating set among thoughtfully placed heirlooms and art. A second bar flanks the modest plunge pool, which is cluttered with lounge chairs where the sleek and beautiful are on exhibit.
The spa, designed by architect Gae Aulenti, offers the usual treatments, but the atmosphere is more serene and sensuous than the norm. Guests paying upwards of $1,000 a night will find that the facilities match the rates. (This place isn't just hype.) Everything here may be on a small scale, including the gym, but the aesthetic is on a large scale. The hotel organizes complimentary excursions to nearby islands and coastal towns.
The individually decorated accommodations, uncluttered and traditional, gleam with peaceful, pale color schemes, ornate hand-painted floor tiles, whitewashed walls, and snow-white and sand-hued fabrics meticulously trimmed in what locals call "Positano Blue" piping (although its does resemble "Capri Blue"). Phones with data posts and voice mail, TVs, disguised minibars, safes and bedside controls, DVD and CD players, and stereos with MP3 capabilities bring up-to-date tech trends to each guest room. The mostly spacious baths furnish whirlpool tubs, robes, slippers and hair dryers. All Superiors and all but a few Standards provide views from balconies. The least-expensive standards are on the small side, face the noisy street and should be avoided. Rooftop Room 93 has beautiful views from its large terrace and its whirlpool for two. The spacious so-called junior suites are actually oversized rooms with ample seating, dining space and grand terraces.
Room service runs 24 hours a day. Pets are not permitted, and neither are children under 8 years old. In general, children are not appropriate for this hotel.
Once upon a time, this establishment was a well-kept secret, but it is now perhaps the most popular on the Amalfi coast, with a reputation and tariff card that draw a largely wealthy North American and European clientele. The service and food of this tantalizing family-run hotel are sublime, and although the surroundings are physically compact, the views and elegant decor create an ambience that is big and beautiful.
